Overview

The coyote is generally a slender animal, very similar in appearance to a medium-sized dog. Since the coyote and domesticated dog are from the same family, the resemblance is more than a coincidence. Coyotes have a bushy tail which is usually tipped in black and is carried down at a 45 degree angle as the animal moves, unlike that of its other cousin the wolf. Most coyotes are gray, though some show a rusty, brown or off-white coloration.

SMART Coyote Safety and Guidelines to Follow

Coyotes Crossing a Yard or Street

Coyotes are most frequently seen and heard during mating season (January-March) and when juveniles start leaving the family pack (September-November). While normally fearful of people, they can sometimes be spotted crossing yards or streets. This behavior is not unusual, especially in residential areas bordering open space where coyotes find their natural prey. They may simply be taking a shortcut to their favorite hunting ground. This type of sighting generally requires no response other than making sure that pets and children are secure and that there is no likely food attractants present in the area.

Coyotes Lounging in a Yard or Approaching/Following People

Coyotes are naturally timid animals and will usually flee at the sight of a human. If they linger or approach humans, it’s time to  begin hazing. The effects of hazing may not last unless all food attractants are permanently removed. Hazing should never be attempted if the coyote is accompanied by pups or appears to be sick or injured. Leave sick or injured animals alone and contact the Dublin Police Department’s Non-Emergency line at 614.889.1112.

Be SMART

• Stop – stop moving
• Make yourself big – wave arms and fists
• Announce – speak forcefully and loudly… “Go away! Get out!”
• Repeat – do this several times until the coyote is out of sight
• Tell – tell others in the area, report the encounter to Dublin Nature Education (614.410.4730) or Police non-emergency line (614.889.1112)

How to Haze for Effective Reshaping of Coyote Behavior

Coexistence is not a passive undertaking

Hazing

Hazing is a safe, humane method of discouraging unwanted coyote behavior by using deterrents such as loud noises, water, lights, and physical gestures to instill fear of humans and keep coyotes out of neighborhoods.

When to Haze Coyotes

• A coyote approaches people or pets
• It lingers in yards, driveways, or near homes
• It repeatedly visits an area where it’s not welcome

Do NOT haze when:

• The coyote is minding its business or quickly moving away
• A coyote pup is present (parent may become aggressive)
• The coyote appears sick or injured — instead, call Dublin Police Non-Emergency: 614.889.1112

General Guidelines

1. Match hazing to behavior: More aggressive hazing is needed if the coyote is bold or habituated.
2. Consistency is key: Early on, be exaggerated and persistent. Coyotes will learn over time.
3. Target groups or individuals: Dominant animals influence others — don’t back off if there are multiple coyotes.
4. Vary tools and people: The more unpredictable and widespread the hazing, the more effective it is.
5. Coyote must see the person: They must associate the deterrent with humans, not the environment.
6. Coyotes are habitual: Track their routines to effectively interrupt them.
7. Continue hazing long-term: Prevent new coyotes from becoming habituated.
8. Human behavior matters: Remove food, trash, or shelter that may attract coyotes.
9. Coyotes are naturally skittish: Boldness comes from learned behavior — often due to human tolerance or feeding.
10. Ensure the coyote leaves: Don’t stop hazing too early, or the coyote may learn to wait it out.

How to Haze

• Noisemakers: Whistles, air horns, shouting, pots & pans
• Projectiles: Sticks, rocks, shaker cans, tennis balls
• Liquids: Water hoses, vinegar water spray bottles or guns
• Other: Pepper spray, bear repellent, walking sticks

Common Hazing Mistakes

• Stopping too early: Always continue until the coyote clearly leaves the area
• Letting coyotes return too easily: Increase hazing if they hesitate or return
• Hazing from hidden spots: Always haze from visible locations so the coyote links danger with humans

If Encountering a Coyote While Walking

• With a pet: Pick up small dogs, stay calm, and haze from your position
• If the coyote approaches: Stop, make yourself large, be loud, and throw objects if necessary

Key Contact

• Sick or injured coyotes — Dublin Police Non-Emergency: 614.889.1112

Bottom Line

Hazing is an effective, humane way to reinforce coyote fear of humans, promoting safe coexistence. Success depends on consistency, visibility, and community-wide participation.

Coyote Q & A

Q: Do coyotes ever attack people?
A: Coyote attacks on humans are rare and seldom result in serious injuries. Attacks have been reported in western states in urban areas where coyotes have lost their fear of humans but are very unlikely in Dublin.

Q: How do I keep my dog safe?
A: Coyotes often treat dogs as competitor-predators while “guarding” their hunting range. On rare occasions, an individual coyote will opportunistically take a small dog. Owners can prevent this by accompanying small dogs outside, especially in the early mornings and at night. While walking, dogs should be kept on no more than an eightfoot lead. Owners should keep an eye out for coyotes and
be prepared to pick up small dogs if a coyote is spotted. During nighttime and early mornings, owners should accompany dogs of any size outside.

Q: How do I keep my cat safe?
A: An indoor cat is safe. Generally, a cat that wanders will be at greater risk than one that stays near its home and has known escape routes. A roaming cat is more at risk for other dangers than a coyote attack.

Q: What are the benefits of coyotes?
A: Coyotes are considered a keystone species whose presence or absence has a major impact on the biological community. As top predators, they help balance prey species, such as rodents, rabbits, deer and geese. They also benefit the bird populations by preying on many of the small mammals that prey on birds, their young or their eggs.

Q: Should I be worried if I see a coyote in my yard?
A: Do not be afraid if you see coyotes crossing your yard or hear them nearby. In areas with mixed residential and natural landscapes, coyotes are around all the time, though usually they go unnoticed. They may take a shortcut through a yard on the way to hunt. If a coyote hangs around in your yard or does not run away when it sees a human, hazing is recommended.

Q: Do coyotes carry rabies?
A: While susceptible to rabies, coyotes are not frequent carriers. A sick coyote should be reported to law enforcement right away, as it can contract rabies from another animal, usually an infected raccoon, skunk or bat. Coyotes can be hosts to a variety of parasites, including ticks, fleas, intestinal worms and heartworms, and they may also be infected with canine distemper, parvovirus and mange.

For more information, reach out to the City of Dublin at 614.410.4730.

Overview of White-Tailed Deer

White-tailed deer can significantly damage gardens, trees, and crops, especially where food is easily accessible. Their browsing leaves rough, shredded stems, unlike the clean cuts made by rabbits or rodents. Deer tend to return to the same areas, especially during cold weather or after disturbances. Feeding them exacerbates the issue. Effective prevention methods include using fencing, repellents, hazing, and planting deer-resistant varieties.

Identifying Deer Damage

Wildlife can harm gardens and landscaping, requiring tailored prevention strategies. Identifying the responsible species is key to protection.

White-tailed deer cause damage by browsing on or trampling plants, with the most significant impact typically occurring in spring.

How to Identify Deer Damage

• Look for torn or shredded tips on branches and twigs.
• Deer prefer branches thinner than 1 inch.
• Bucks rub bark off small trees with antlers during rutting season.
• Deer droppings can confirm their presence.
• Inspect damage closely, as other wildlife may be involved.

Preventing Deer Damage

Placement and Selection of Plants

The placement of plants affects their susceptibility to damage. Position more vulnerable species near your home, within fencing, or surrounded by less-preferred plants. While some plants are less appealing to deer, none are completely deer-proof, especially when food is scarce. A plant that’s rarely browsed in one area may suffer heavy damage in another. Landscape Plants Rated by Deer Resistance

Repellents

There are two types of repellents: contact and area. Contact repellents are applied directly to plants, making them taste bad, while area repellents emit a foul odor in the environment. They work best on less preferred plants.

Apply repellents on dry days with temperatures above freezing. Treat young trees thoroughly and focus on the new growth of older trees, applying up to six feet high, as deer browse from the top down. Target the bud or new growth level for protection.

A highly effective repellent is a spray of 20% whole egg yolk and 80% water. To prevent clogging, remove the white membrane (chalaza) before mixing. This weather-resistant mixture should be reapplied every 30 days.

Netting and Tubing

Tubes of Vexar netting can effectively protect individual seedlings and small trees from deer damage by covering the growing tips or enclosing the entire seedling. It’s important to secure the tubes to a stake for support. For larger trees, tubes can protect the trunk from browsing but may not prevent antler rubbing by bucks during velvet shedding, in which case fencing may be needed for full protection.

Fencing and Protective Structures

Fencing is the most reliable way to prevent deer damage, especially in urban areas. A standard deer-proof fence is 8 feet high and made of woven wire, while effective electric fencing uses triple-galvanized, high-tensile 13.5-gauge wire with a current of 35 milliamps and 3000 to 4500 volts. Single-wire electric fences can be baited with aluminum foil squares coated in peanut butter to encourage deer contact and train them to stay away.

Additional deterrents include angled layered fencing (18”, 26”, and 36”), flat 26-36” mesh or chicken wire to block walking paths, and motion-activated flashing lights. For young trees, use protective wraps like drain tile or garden wire mesh (36-40” high) and remove tape wraps in spring to avoid trunk damage.

Management Strategies

Hazing

Hazing, or scaring deer away from vulnerable areas, is a short-term strategy that relies on sudden noise or movement. Common methods include:

• Motion-activated sprinklers
• Flashing lights
• Noisemakers like radios
• Predator Eyes
• Menthol rubs on leaves
• Deer Scram

Although these are hazing strategies, deer can quickly become accustomed to these tactics, so it is important to rotate and vary methods to keep them effective. To further reduce damage, especially to ornamental plants, consider using plant species that deer tend to avoid due to their toxicity, strong fragrance or texture.

For more information, reach out to the City of Dublin at 614.410.4730.

Overview of Muskrats

Muskrats are rodents that inhabit areas near water. If you have a lake or pond on your property, you may encounter them. While muskrats can weaken pond banks through digging, naturalized areas typically withstand their presence without issue. The City of Dublin generally does not intervene with wildlife on city property, but when conflicts arise, we prioritize humane solutions. This includes implementing engineering designs to prevent erosion and blockages in stormwater drainage.

Identifying Muskrat Activity

To identify a muskrat problem, look for signs like burrows, runs or dens near ponds. The first step in using deterrents is to pinpoint their entry points. While burrowing indicates their presence, other signs are often visible sooner. Walk the perimeter of your lakes or ponds to spot dens at the water’s edge, lodges made of cattail stems and runways created by muskrats. Once you find these areas, you can take effective measures to deter them.

Preventing Muskrat Attraction

Muskrats are opportunistic feeders attracted to properties with easy access to food. They eat aquatic plants like cattails and pondweed, as well as small animals like fish and snails. Around homes, spilled birdseed, pet food and grill drippings can also draw them in, especially at night. To deter muskrats, avoid feeding wildlife and keep outdoor areas clean to limit food sources. Reducing the available food will make your property less
appealing to them.

Detering Muskrats

Effective strategies for deterring muskrats include startling them, eliminating food sources, hiring pest control professionals and using predator scents near their habitats.

Repellents
Scent-based repellents are an effective and humane way to deter muskrats from your property. They overwhelm the animals’ sensitive sense of smell, making the area feel unsafe. For optimal results, apply these repellents in targeted problem areas, such as:

• Property edges and garden beds
• Near burrow entrances or disturbed soil
• Around trash cans or compost piles
• Close to ponds and waterways

Effective scent repellents include:

• Cayenne Pepper
• Predator Urine (Fox or Coyote)
• Garlic and Pepper Mixtures

Repellents need regular reapplication, especially after rain, as they fade over time. While scent-based deterrents aren’t foolproof alone, they can be effective in a broader muskrat prevention plan.

Devices and Pre-Made Repellents
Using ready-made repellents is an effective way to deter muskrats from your property. These products target various nuisance animals, offering a convenient, low-maintenance solution.

Pre-Made Repellent:

• Sprays: Natural Armor Animal and Rodent Repellent Spray repels muskrats, skunks and raccoons, with some formula lasting up to 90 days
• Granules: Repels-All Animal Repellent Granules can be scattered in areas of activity.

Motion-Based Deterrents:

• Sprinklers: Motion-activated sprinklers like the Havahart 5277 detect movement and spray water to startle muskrats.
• Predator Eye Lights: Light flashes that mimic predators.

Trapping Considerations:

• Trapping should be a last resort due to ethical and legal concerns.
• Removing one muskrat may invite another.
• Trapping can be costly and stressful

These commercial and physical deterrents are effective when used consistently together, creating an environment where muskrats are unlikely to settle.

For more information, reach out to the City of Dublin at 614.410.4730.

Overview of Rabbits

For nature-friendly gardeners, the best approach to wildlife issues is peaceful coexistence. To keep rabbits from eating your plants, use strategic methods rather than force. Start by understanding their behavior.

Think Like a Rabbit
Rabbits are prolific breeders; a single couple can produce 18 baby bunnies in one breeding season. To manage rabbit issues effectively, coexistence is key. These timid creatures tend to feed along the edges of gardens, preferring areas where they can quickly take cover. Reducing hiding spots, like brush piles and tall grass, can deter them from your garden.
While rabbits will eat almost any green plant when hungry, they prefer young, tender growth. Strengthening your rabbit protection early in the season can minimize damage later. They particularly enjoy alfalfa and clover, so planting these in your yard may attract them away from your garden veggies.

Control Options

There are three primary strategies for keeping rabbits from eating your favorite plants: coverage, repellents and fencing

Coverage
Use ¾” mesh fencing or poultry mesh to enclose vulnerable plants or create protective tunnels. For trees, wrap the trunk with hardware cloth or mesh at least one foot above anticipated snow levels, extending a few inches below the soil.

Repellents
If other food choices are available, rabbits may avoid certain crops using granular repellents, clip-on garlic odor repellents or fish emulsion. Sprinkling talcum powder or Epsom salts can also deter them. Products like Deer Scram and Milorganite have proven effective. If rabbits are already fond of a crop, repellents may not work. Repellent sprays can help disrupt feeding and allow young plants to grow. Most need reapplication every few days and after rain. Vapor chest rub can also be applied to leaves for multiple rain cycles.

Fencing
To keep rabbits out of your vegetable garden, a 2-foot poultry mesh fence (1″ diameter or smaller) is usually effective. Secure it to sturdy stakes and extend it 6 inches into the soil to prevent burrowing. Purchase 3-foot fencing for this setup.

For more information, reach out to the City of Dublin at 614.410.4730.

Lawn Damage From Raccoons

Many homeowners across the Midwest encounter a common challenge each year, especially in spring when the soil warms and grass begins to grow. Raccoons, being intelligent and persistent, can continue digging as long as they believe there’s food underneath.

However, there’s no need for concern. Understanding the issue can help us find effective solutions. If we make it harder for raccoons to dig and limit the food sources available, they are likely to look for food elsewhere.

Lawn Protection

Grub control is vital for lawn health, with timing being crucial. Apply beneficial nematodes between August and October, targeting vulnerable newly hatched grub larvae. Water thoroughly after application to keep the soil damp for effectiveness.

Late summer preventative treatments are especially important in grub-prone or raccoon-heavy areas. Grubs damage root systems and attract digging animals. To check for grubs, inspect a 1 sq. ft. section of turf.

If animals dig up the lawn, replace the turf, water it well, and apply a root-building fertilizer. In the long term, proper nutrition, fall aeration, and overseeding will strengthen and deepen your lawn’s roots.

For Added Raccoon Deterrence:

• Use cayenne pepper, coyote urine or commercial repellents
• Lay chicken wire loosely over dug-up areas
• Install motion-activated sprinklers

There are no guaranteed fixes, but combining proactive grub control, strong turf management, and deterrents can make your lawn far less attractive to masked diggers—and avoid the dreaded “mayday” call come spring.

For more information, reach out to the City of Dublin at 614.410.4730.

Overview of Raptors

The good news is that hawk attacks are rare and are not deadly. When hawks or owls dive-bomb at humans or pets, they are guarding their nest and rarely make contact.

On the rare occasion a raptor does make contact, this can result in minor cuts or scrapes. Such injuries should be treated medically to prevent infection, but the injuries themselves are not lethal to humans.

Can you harm a Hawk if it attacks you?

The short answer is no. Hawks have been protected under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act (MBTA) since 1918, which prohibits hunting, killing, or capturing them without special federal permits. In Ohio, state laws also protect birds, requiring state Division of Wildlife approval even with federal permission. Accidentally killing a hawk in self-defense may still result in fines.

Tips to Avoid Encounters with Raptors Defending Nests or Young

• Avoid the immediate nest area: If you see a nest or notice a raptor diving at people, alert your neighbors and avoid the area for a couple of weeks until the nestlings leave.
• Post a sign near the “hot zone”: Warn that a hawk or owl may dive at people to protect its nest. This period lasts about 30 days.
• Never turn your back: Hawks approach prey from behind. If a hawk threatens you, face it and don’t turn your back until it retreats.
• Wave your arms and be loud: Hawks are unsettled by loud noises and aggressive movements. Shouting and waving your arms can help intimidate a threatening hawk and make it retreat.
• Duck: Hawks attack by dive-bombing. If you see one coming, duck and move out of the way.
• Carry an umbrella: Walking with an open umbrella. It can protect against attacks and may discourage hawks from approaching.

What are Hawks afraid of?

To deter hawks from your yard, it helps to know what scares them. Fortunately, hawks are easier to scare off than larger birds of prey.

Some common things they’re scared of include:

• Loud noises: Shouting can discourage hawks from attacking, as they are easily spooked by loud noises.
• Threatening motions: Waving your arms can deter hawks, and setting up a flag may encourage them to leave your yard. Sudden movements can help scare them away.
• Deterrents: Scarecrows, fake owls, hanging old CDs from trees, or wearing a colorful hat can effectively scare hawks away.

For more information, reach out to the City of Dublin at 614.410.4730.

Overview of Striped Skunk

Skunks, part of the Mephitidae family, are known for their strong odor caused by thiols and thioacetates—sulfur-based compounds also found in garlic and onions. Most animals instinctively avoid thiols, though they’re used in small amounts in perfumes. Chemist Paul Krebaum developed a peroxide and baking soda mixture that neutralizes skunk musk by adding oxygen to the sulfur, effectively removing the smell.

De-Skunking Formulas for Pets and Home

• Best De-Skunking Products for Pets: Use “Skunk-Off” or similar pet-safe shampoo
• Homemade De-Skunking Shampoo:
  o Wash With: 4 cups hydrogen peroxide, ¼ cup baking soda, 2 Tbsp Dawn dish soap. Use the solution immediately and rinse thoroughly within a few minutes. For black or dark-coated dogs, dilute the peroxide 1:1 with water to reduce the risk of coat lightening. You may need to repeat the wash 2–3 times to fully remove the odor.
  o Rinse With: 1 cup of citrus Listerine diluted in 2 cups of water, or use a 1:2 mix of white vinegar and water, which will leave the coat squeaky clean.
  o Face Spot Treatment: Apply regular Crest toothpaste (original formula) directly to the smelly fur or skin. Let it dry like a mask—it will flake off or can be brushed off the next day. Reapply as needed for 2–3 days until the odor fades
• For Quick and Immediate Deodorization: Wet the coat with 4-8 cups of peroxide (diluted if needed), then rub in 1-2 cups baking soda.
• For Wood or Concrete Surfaces: 1 cup bleach per 1 gallon of water and rinse/wash.
• Clothing: Add de-skunk formula to a washing machine or use bleach for bleach-safe items (never apply formula directly to fabric).
• Time: Volatile chemicals like thiols will simply disperse over time.
• Resurgence: Thiols become activated in the presence of water. Moisture (rain, baths, humidity) can reactivate odor; some smell may return temporarily.

Peaceful Co-Existence with Skunks

Food and Attractant Control

• Do not feed skunks.
• Never discard edible garbage where skunks can get to it.
• Secure garbage containers and eliminate their odors.
• Keep fruit trees picked and don’t leave rotted fruit on the ground.
• Restrict the use of birdseed and keep areas under feeders very clean.

Den and Shelter Prevention

• Test holes for skunk presence and seal if vacant.
• Install one-way doors on entrances to skunk dens (not during baby season).
• Bury fences in a 12” L shape.
• Avoid thick shrubbery next to buildings.
• Cover window wells.

Repellents and Deterrents

• Use “Deer Scram!” or similar repellents.
• Place 2-3, ½ empty thin plastic water bottles in entryways. The crinkly bottles and moving water make skunks very wary and nervous enough to leave.
• Use lighting and a portable radio.
• Warn skunks by flicking lights before letting pets out.

Behavior and Safety Around Skunks

• Let a skunk exit on its own from a garage.
• Keep pet doors closed at night.
• Move calmly and quietly around a skunk to avoid being sprayed.
• Do not trap skunks — it’s not recommended and does not solve the issue.

For more information, reach out to the City of Dublin at 614.410.4730.

Overview of Squirrels and Chipmunks

Squirrels and chipmunks, often seen as harmless, can be destructive when they come too close to human spaces. Their instinct to bury food leads them to dig in flowerpots, damaging plants and bulbs. Their need to chew can result in gnawing on siding, wires, and vehicles, often attracted to tasty or scented materials like soy-based wiring. To address these issues, a mix of deterrents, physical barriers, habitat adjustments and strategic repellents can help discourage digging and prevent damage.

Protecting Potted Plants

To protect potted plants from squirrels and chipmunks, consider the following tips:

• Distasteful Mix: Add cayenne pepper, crushed red pepper, vinegar, peppermint oil or garlic to the potting soil.
• Homemade Repellent: Combine 2 tablespoons each of black pepper and cayenne pepper, one chopped onion and one chopped jalapeno. Boil for 15–20 minutes, strain and spray around the plants
• Use Blood Meal: Mix dried blood (blood meal) in the soil for nitrogen and to deter squirrels but avoid excessive use.
• Cover with Rocks or Mulch: A layer of decorative stones can deter digging. Alternatively, thick mulch is plant-friendly and can keep squirrels out.
• Scare Tactics: Hang shiny objects like CDs or aluminum pans or use colorful pinwheels to scare squirrels away.
• Physical Barriers: Cover plants with chicken wire or netting, especially in late summer. Alternatively, place wire mesh near the roots or use thorny plant stems to deter digging.

Preventing Structural Damage

• Inspect Exterior: Examine the exterior of a building, especially the eaves, for holes and cracks. Identifying the damage helps choose the best prevention methods.
• Seal Gaps: Seal holes with durable materials and cover vents and chimney caps with securely attached metal mesh.
• Use Repellents: Squirrels have a strong sense of smell and dislike for capsaicin, the compound in cayenne peppers. You can buy commercial squirrel repellents or make your own.
• Homemade Scent Deterrents: Combine 1 bottle of cayenne pepper sauce, 1 gallon of water and 1 teaspoon of mild liquid dish soap. Spray on areas where squirrels are active.
• Other Scent Deterrents: Vicks Vapor or Solstice Quick Rub can repel chipmunks and squirrels due to their odor. Apply to flashing or a material covering gnawed areas.
• Block Access: Make access harder by covering damaged areas with hardware cloth or tin; a pet dog outdoors can also deter squirrels by chasing them off.
• Trim Climbing Routes: Trim trees and bushes to prevent squirrels from jumping onto structures and chewing their way inside.
• Remove Food Sources: Remove or relocate bird feeders to discourage squirrels from lingering; they may chew on homes when feeders prevent normal tooth wear.
• Offer Chew Options: Offer alternative chew items like bones or branches, placing them progressively farther from the structure while using repellents to divert chewing away from the home.

For more information, reach out to the City of Dublin at 614.410.4730.

Overview of Vultures

Turkey and black vultures can cause significant damage when roosting in large numbers, but several humane, non-lethal deterrents, such as electric shock tape, roosting spikes, laser lights, vulture effigies and proper disposal of food and carrion, can effectively discourage them from staying in unwanted areas.

Vulture Control Strategies

Electric Brid-shock Tape
Bird shock tape is an effective, low-harm deterrent for heavy, destructive vultures. When placed on roosting spots and connected to a charger, it delivers a mild shock that drives vultures away without injury—ideal for covering up to 50 feet of space.

Laser Light
Laser deterrents scare vultures by projecting unpredictable, moving lights that make birds feel unsafe. They cover large areas, are easy to set up, and work without harming birds or the environment.

Roosting Spikes
Roosting spikes make surfaces uncomfortable and unusable for vultures, which need wide, flat ledges to perch. Cover all potential roosting spots, or they’ll simply move to unprotected areas.

Remove Carrion Immediately
Vultures are attracted to carrion like roadkill or predator leftovers, so proper disposal is important. Small animals can be double-bagged and placed in the Rumpke bin for regular pick-up. If it’s warm and not close to trash day, leave the bag curbside and submit a GoDublin request. For larger animals, contact the city with the location, type of animal, and how to access it for removal.

Dispose of Garbage Properly
Dead animals are obvious attractants, but meat scraps or smelly trash can also keep vultures hanging around.

Vulture Effigies
A vulture effigy mimics a dead bird and can be hung anywhere vultures roost. Movement in the wind creates a realistic, unsettling image that scares them off. For best results, hang it upside down and relocate it weekly. Commercial or DIY versions using lightweight black cloth both work well.

For more information, reach out to the City of Dublin at 614.410.4730.

Overview of Woodchucks

Woodchucks can cause problems, but they can be managed effectively. The best deterrents focus on addressing the root causes of conflict. They may damage crops from mid-March to October, while winter damage typically comes from deer or rabbits. Additionally, their burrows can threaten the foundations of buildings like barns or sheds.

Common Problems and Solutions

Tolerance
Woodchucks play an important ecological role by serving as food for predators and providing shelter for other animals. Their burrows aid in soil drainage and aeration. As “hindgut fermenters,” they also help in seed dispersal, promoting plant growth. If there’s no conflict with humans, it’s best to leave woodchucks undisturbed.

Evicting from a Property
If woodchuck burrows are problematic, eviction and exclusion are best. Harassing the animal can drive them out, but it should be done humanely and within a limited timeframe.

Timing
Avoid evicting woodchucks during the breeding season from March to early summer, as females have dependent young. The best eviction period is mid-summer to early October. If you see young woodchucks above ground, wait two weeks before evicting to ensure they are independent.

Hazing Burrows
To evict woodchucks, try these methods:

• Partially dig out the entrance and clear vegetation.
• Place strong-smelling substances, like urine-soaked litter, inside the entrance.
• Loosely seal the entrance to trap the smell.
• Use 2-4 crinkly plastic water bottles filled 1/3 with water at the entrance. The noise and movement often drive woodchucks away.
• Predator Eyes, flashing lights mimic a predator.
• For burrows near structures, use a bright clamp aimed at the entrance.

Closing Burrows
To check if a burrow is unoccupied, loosely plug the entrances with grass clippings or newspaper for three to five days. If the material stays undisturbed, the burrow is likely vacant. To close it, use 3×3-foot sections of heavy-gauge welded wire (max 3-inch squares), bury it at least 1 foot deep over the entrance and secure it with landscape staples if necessary. Backfill with local substrate.

Fencing
To protect gardens from woodchucks, use fencing that is best for small areas. A perimeter fence should:

• Be made of chicken or welded wire with 3-inch mesh.
• Stand 3-4 feet tall.
• Have 12-18 inches of loose top fencing to wobble when climbed.
• Include a strand of electric fencing 4 inches off the ground to prevent digging.

To create a more rigid fence, bend the top outward at a 45-degree angle. Electric fences are effective with one strand 4 inches above the ground or two if needed. Solar-powered options are portable and easy to set up. Woodchucks can easily reopen old burrows, even years later.

Scare Devices
Woodchucks are easily startled by new objects. Try placing Mylar® balloons, beach balls or lawn chairs near their burrows. Move or change these items daily for better results, as scare tactics work best when varied frequently.

Habitat Modification
Woodchucks prefer dense vegetation for cover. Clearing vegetation around burrows can make them feel unsafe and, combined with other methods, may encourage them to leave. Keeping grass and undergrowth low also helps prevent new burrows near buildings. Burrows are often abandoned for weeks or months before being reused.

Repellents
No commercial repellents are approved for woodchucks, but some home remedies help. Epsom salt may deter browsing and benefit plants. A vinegar, egg yolk and water spray can also discourage chewing, but needs frequent reapplication, especially after rain.

Menthol-eucalyptus chest rub can be applied to the outer leaves of key plants, providing a strong scent that lasts for about a month. This scent can help repel rabbits, deer, squirrels and chipmunks, preventing them from gnawing on or consuming the plants.

For more information, reach out to the City of Dublin at 614.410.4730.